India’s restored family homes, some dating back hundreds of years, offer guests unique experiences that blend luxury and old-world charm. (Source photos by Pipal Haveli, Calcutta Bungalow)
BENGALURU, India — For international travelers exploring India, immersive experiences can be ideal ways to gain special insights into the country, either as spiritual routes or backpacking adventures, or even culinary explorations or cultural experiences.
For a luxury experience, there is something inexplicably romantic about staying at Indian palace hotels that convey a sense of old grandeur and royal traditions. But it is also becoming increasingly easy to find a luxury niche between royalty and lovingly restored ancestral homes.
In recent years, ancestral homes across India have opened their doors to visitors, offering a unique experience of traditional hospitality. In these homes, visitors can stroll through corridors that family members have walked for generations.
You sit with your laptop at desks where the children once studied, and dine at tables where a family broke bread together, often savoring recipes handed down through the generations. You browse through their book collections and the curios they have collected on their travels, and you sleep in beds where they dreamed of bright futures.
Most such homes have architecture and interiors that are representative of a specific period, sometimes restored to their original magnificence, updated to meet current requirements. Each is like a time capsule waiting for visitors to journey through. Here are some top picks.
Justa Diwans Bungalow, Ahmedabad, Gujarat state
Top: The pristine white facade of Justa Diwans Bungalow is in stark contrast to the chaotic streets right outside its black metal gates. Bottom: The reception area with its plush carved-wood sofas, stained-glass windows, low-hanging chandeliers and carpeted floors leads to rooms on one side and the restaurant, Dalan. (Courtesy of Justa Diwans Bungalow)Savor the favorite recipes of the Kadri family at this 150-year-old heritage home in Gujarat’s largest city. There are some twists and turns to navigate in the narrow roads of Old Ahmedabad city. But as the black metal gates of Justa Diwans Bungalow open you leave the chaotic streets behind and are instantly soothed by an ornate fountain.
In front is the central wing which houses most of the hotel’s eight rooms. The reception area takes you back in time, with its plush purple-cushioned sofas of carved wood, stained-glass windows, low-hanging chandeliers and carpeted floors.
This home was built 150 years ago by Saiyed Bavamiyan Kadri, the Diwan of Radhanpur (the ruler of a semi-independent princely state in British-ruled India) after he retired to Ahmedabad. His son, Mustafa Hassan Kadri, was a leader of the pro-independence Indian National Congress party between 1920 and 1950, and often hosted leading campaigners such as Mahatma Gandhi, Vallabhbhai Patel, later the first deputy prime minister of independent India, and Abdul Ghaffar Khan, later a leading Muslim opponent of the Partition of British India into India and Pakistan.
Top: Across spaces here are black-and-white photographs of the family, framed and mounted on walls. Bottom: The restaurant overlooks a green garden and is perfect for a cup of chai and a snack. (Courtesy of Justa Diwans Bungalow)Six of the hotel’s eight suites are named after Mustafa Hassan Kadri’s sons — each is a complete wing with a dedicated corridor or staircase, living area and bathroom. The renowned Indian architect Iftikhar Mustafa Hassan Kadri, now 97, was 7 years old when he laid the foundation stone for the central wing in 1936. He recalls as many as 15 people living in the home at one point. Neighborhood weddings took place in the courtyard.
Staying here is like being a guest at a British colonial home with Gujarati overtones. Each of the delightfully different suites has four-poster beds, chandeliers, stately wooden cupboards, traditional ajrak (hand-block-printed fabric) and mashru (handwoven fabric of cotton and silk) textiles across the room, framed photos of the family and age-old artifacts. Everything seems steeped in the Kadri family story and visitors become a part of that.
Culinary explorers should ask to meet Shaikh Rehana Abdul Hamid, the third-generation cook of the family, who is the current custodian of the home’s traditional recipes (which focus on meat dishes). She will ensure you eat Hussaini chicken, mutton pulao, chicken biryani, khatta ghosht (a mutton dish that is Iftikhar Mustafa Hassan Kadri’s favorite), kebabs, zaffrani phirni (saffron rice pudding) and more.
Every corner of Justa Diwans Bungalow has a story to tell and a memory lane to take you down.
SaffronStays Amaya, in Kannur, Kerala state
Top: The front facade of the 300-year old Tangal family heritage home. Bottom: The five-room villa offers an immersive experience into the local Kerala culture. (Courtesy of SaffronStays Amaya)As you climb the steps into the tile-roofed portico of this 300-year-old heritage villa, you may hear echoes of the story of Kallur Illam, the ancestral home of the Tangal family. (Kallur is the ancient name of this location, and Illam means home.) These Namboodiri Brahmins (a prominent priestly caste who were major landowners in Kerala) were renowned for resisting the subjugation of the Malabar region in southwest India by Tipu Sultan, the 18th-century ruler of the kingdom of Mysore, in southern India. Tipu subdued smaller kingdoms and was one of the few Indian rulers to defeat British armies in battle. The Tangals’ home mirrors the turbulent history of this part of Malabar and its ruling community.
Architecture enthusiasts will love the building, which is constructed entirely from teak wood and laterite stone, sourced from local Malabar quarries. Laterite stone was also used to build a beautiful stepping pond on the estate, where you can spend some quiet time. The sloping roof nearby was used by the women of the house for washing and bathing.
Top: The home has been constructed entirely from teak wood and laterite stone, sourced from local Malabar quarries. Bottom: Farm-to-fork meals, with produce from the property’s farm, are part of the experience. (Courtesy of SaffronStays Amaya)Once a 20-hectare estate, Kallur Illam was home to several buildings, including a Hindu temple, stables, a blacksmith’s forge, and a school for teaching the ancient martial art of kalarippayattu. However, the estate was largely destroyed during the Tipu Sultan period, and it took the resilient owners years to restore the main structure to its original grandeur. The kalari (a training space for kalarippayattu) is now outfitted for volleyball and badminton. Visitors can also unwind in a traditional Kerala-style spa that offers Kalari Ayurveda massages (a healing massage used in the kalarippayattu tradition).
Farm-to-fork meals, grown on the property’s lush estate, form an integral part of the experience. You can savor classic Kerala flavors, from Malabari pepper to organic milk, sourced directly from the estate’s cows and farms.
Kallur Illam, which remains a well-known local landmark, has always been the epicenter of cultural activities for the Tangal family, and visitors can immerse themselves in the culture of Kerala and take part in local celebrations and cultural events. The five-room villa offers a rare opportunity to experience the lifestyle and traditions of an ancient Kerala family.
The Apple Farm Stay, Shimla, Himachal Pradesh state
Top: Apple Farm Stay is an example of earthquake-resistant vernacular architecture. Bottom: In 2016, the ground and middle floors, once used for cattle and grain storage, became a lobby and dining area. (Courtesy of The Apple Farm Stay)The stars shine brightly here on a clear night, and the snow lands gently to create a welcoming carpet. At more than 2,000 meters above sea level, life could not be more serene. The Apple Farm Stay was created in 1916 by Shri Thakur Bala Nand, a distinguished wazir (political adviser or minister) in Himachal Pradesh. The wood-and-stone heritage residence was restored in 1955 by his son, Pratap Singh Jhina, and thoughtfully refined in 2016 by his grandson, Parishrut Singh Jhina, retaining its original aesthetic charm.
The property is a wonderful example of vernacular architecture with unpolished stone, with jalis (latticework) and latkans (hanging ornaments) on the facade. Rooted in the timeless principles of kath-khuni architecture (Indian wood-corner architecture, known for its earthquake resilience), this two-bedroom home seamlessly integrates history, craftsmanship and thoughtful restoration.
Top: Views of hills — covered in snow during winter — and twinkling stars at night are part of the experience here. Bottom: Winter and summer stays here offer vastly different experiences. (Courtesy of The Apple Farm Stay)The walls showcase traditional construction methods, with undressed stone and lime-and-mud mortar, reinforced with timber sleepers for an earthquake-resistant foundation. During the 2016 restoration the ground and middle floors — originally used for cattle and grain storage — were transformed into a lobby and dining area.
The traditional machan (wooden platform), also used for grain storage, was cleaned and repurposed into a kitchenette connected to the dining space. A wooden ladder once used outside the property, which withstood the elements for decades, now bridges the dining area and the lounge bar. This home is set in an apple orchard against a scenic mountain backdrop. Staying here in winter — and even in the cool local summers — is a sharp contrast to most locations elsewhere in India.
Pipal Haveli, in Gurdaspur, Punjab state
Left: Pipal Haveli brings together traditional architectural elements blended with sustainable design. Right: Guests stay in one of the four elegant rooms at the property. (Courtesy of Pipal Haveli)Located in the village of Nawanpind Sardaran, in Punjab state, Pipal Haveli is a magnificent 19th-century structure that was originally built as a grand haveli (a traditional mansion) by S. Narain S. Singhpuria about 125 years ago. It features a majestic gateway with emblems of the British Crown and the Singhpuria family. The estate once housed agricultural stores and hosted community gatherings.
The haveli’s restoration was spearheaded by Gurmeet S. Rai, a conservation architect and a great-great-granddaughter of Narain Singhpuria. Today, the property brings together traditional architectural elements blended with sustainable design, including open courtyards, verandas and multipurpose halls. Constructed from local materials such as lime-based mortar and fired bricks, the haveli is a model of eco-conscious architecture.
Left: The restoration was spearheaded by Gurmeet S Rai, a conservation architect and the great-great-granddaughter of Narain Singhpuria, who built the property. Right: Constructed with local materials like lime-based mortar and fired bricks, the haveli (traditional mansion) is a model of eco-conscious architecture. (Courtesy of Pipal Haveli)Visitors can stay in one of four elegant rooms. Spend time at the amphitheater under the majestic pipal (the sacred fig) tree, where you can take part in cultural events, workshops and community activities. Visitors can also participate in artist residencies and attend traditional craft workshops. Unique dining experiences include farm-to-table meals featuring local produce cooked with age-old recipes.
Calcutta Bungalow, Kolkata
This home offers a glimpse of middle-class life in Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) during the first half of the 20th century. Located in the heart of North Kolkata, close to the city’s largest public park, Calcutta Bungalow is a restored 1926 heritage property that embodies the essence of the city’s golden era. It is located close to the airport — an unusual convenience in this bustling city.
Left: Close to the city’s largest public park, Calcutta Bungalow is a restored 1926 heritage property. Right: The minimalist design is inspired by the aesthetics of an upper-middle-class Kolkata household. (Courtesy of Calcutta Bungalow)The building, which, despite its name, boasts three stories with balconies on the upper floors, was painstakingly acquired in 2015 from a Bengali joint family (multiple generations living in a single building) following years of negotiations with stakeholders. Remarkably, the original architectural details had been preserved, allowing the restoration team to retain the bungalow’s character.
Architect Swarup Dutta collaborated with co-owner Iftekar Ahsan to craft a minimalist design inspired by the aesthetics of an upper-middle-class Kolkata household from the early 20th century. Subdued color schemes, exposed brick walls with traditional lime mortar and locally crafted furniture create an ambience that feels timeless.
Top: The original architectural details were preserved, allowing the restoration team to retain the bungalow’s character. Bottom: The property’s six rooms are thoughtfully curated with reclaimed materials and antique elements, such as functional typewriters for guests to write letters. (Courtesy of Calcutta Bungalow)Each of the property’s six rooms is filled with reclaimed materials and antique elements, such as functional typewriters for guests to write letters. Two serene courtyards provide a private oasis, showcasing repurposed khorkhoris (louvered windows). The masonry here is bonded with mortar using an ancient formula that mixes a range of food ingredients that cures in two weeks.
The bungalow’s tranquil courtyards, thoughtful restoration and central location offer a rare glimpse into Kolkata’s architectural heritage and vibrant soul.
Other ancestral homes to visit
The Bhuj House, in Bhuj, Gujarat. Built in 1894, belonging to the Bhujwala family, this large courtyard home has five rooms, each named after members of this Parsi family (descendants of immigrants from Iran in the seventh century. All rooms open onto an inner courtyard and have a distinct Gujarati Parsi flavor in their decor and ambience.
The School Estate, in Coorg (also known as Kodagu), in Karnataka state. Built in 1878, this plantation bungalow was built on land given by the British to a German Christian missionary, the Rev. Georg Richter. Today it is the home of the Aiyappa family. The estate has two cottages and three rooms and ensures a classic Coorg hospitality experience.
The Figueiredo House, Goa state. Built in 1590, this home belongs to the Figueiredo family (which converted to Catholicism, changing its name from Podiar. It has four rooms and an extensive museum.
Mai House, Kochi (also known as Cochin), in Kerala. A 100-year-old Christian tharavadu (ancestral) style home, it blends colonial and Kerala architecture. With nine rooms, it offers a timeless ambience.
Thengal Manor, Jorhat, Assam state. Built in 1929, this was the home from which Assam’s first local language newspaper, Dainik Bhatori, was launched in 1935. It has just five rooms.
The article appeared in the asia.nikkei