Exploring India’s Meghalaya: Living bridges and magic rocks

SHILLONG, India — I froze. My heart skipped a beat, and my head spun wildly. It was as if my soul had left my body when I stepped onto a 150-meter bamboo skywalk perched on a mountain ridge. Dizzy, I glanced down at the steep valley below, where a river cut through like a cavernous scar. It seemed to beckon to me.

“Will you be joining the list of people who have perished in this land of warriors before?” I asked myself fearfully.

Ensconced in the lush East Khasi Hills of northeastern India’s Meghalaya state, and wrapped in local legend, the Mawryngkhang Bamboo Trail to the U Mawryngkhang rock — winner of a mythical battle with the rock Mawpator for the beautiful Kthiang — is no ordinary hike.

Perched at between 1,800 and 2,000 meters, the route is not for the fainthearted. But my husband and I took the plunge to digitally detox outdoors, while our son tagged along to hone the bushcraft skills he had learned from the popular television show “Man Vs. Wild,” starring the British adventurer and survival expert Bear Grylls.

Meghalaya, part of a biodiversity hot spot on India’s border with Myanmar, is home to more than 7,000 plant species and 500 vertebrates. The picturesque region sustains 300 million people, including indigenous tribes such as the Khasi, Garo and Jaintia, who depend on its rich biodiversity.

A stretch of the Mawryngkhang Bamboo Trail.

Their survival skills, from foraging to maintaining jungle trails and creating living-root bridges, are the keys to the twin objectives of preserving their mountain homes and attracting tourists. Popularly known as “bushcraft,” these survival techniques have been honed over generations, shaping the inhabitants’ unique way of life.

The Mawryngkhang Bamboo Trail, established by villagers in the remote settlement of Wankhen, is a fine example of indigenous bushcraft turned into adventure tourism. Starting from the village, the 4-kilometer trail features handcrafted but scary bamboo skywalks and bridges, made using natural materials such as sticks, ropes and bamboo, with minimal nails.

I was embarking on the most challenging part of the trail when the river below seemed to call to me. It was a thrilling and heart-pounding walk to the other side of the bridge, which stretched my mental strength and endurance more than my physical abilities.

With its charming waterfalls, pebbled riverbanks and breathtaking views, the bamboo trail is both a source of adventure and a testament to the local Khasi people’s sustainable practices and ability to work in tandem with nature.

A misty view on the way to Wankhen village.

Even better examples are the area’s jingkieng jri, or living-root bridges, like the one we later visited in Mawlynnong village — where the local communities have carefully guided the aerial roots of rubber trees using bamboo, allowing them to intertwine over 20 to 25 years. These root bridges are on UNESCO’s tentative list for potential inclusion in the World Heritage List.

The most famous and challenging to reach is the Nongriat double-decker root bridge in the village of Tyrna, which requires an arduous climb down almost 3,000 steps. However, living-root and bamboo bridges dot the expansive Cherrapunjee-Mawsynram area of the Shillong Plateau in Meghalaya, which is the wettest place on earth, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, with average annual rainfall of 12,000 millimeters.

The bridges connect remote hamlets and communities across steep and treacherous terrain, where heavy rains and landslides make constructing concrete roads or steel bridges a challenge.

Bushcraft skills have become increasingly popular on Indian social media in recent years, helping to attract tourists who want to see indigenous tribal dwellings and observe the inhabitants’ expertise in fishing, archery, mushroom foraging and handcrafted bridges.

A bridge made using the aerial roots of rubber trees that have intertwined over decades.

In Meghalaya, archery contests happen daily, except on Sundays and public holidays. Betting on the results — a practice known as Shillong Teer — is also popular among the local people, with pint-size kiosks selling tickets across the region. Official matches are held at the Polo Ground run by the Khasi Hills Archery Sports Institute in Shillong, the state capital, while frenzied informal contests take place during festivals and community gatherings in hamlets and towns across the state.

Fishing is also very popular — driving between Wankhen village and Shillong on a Saturday we saw more than three dozen people, including a few women, huddled around a pond with fishing rods, a polythene bag full of squiggly worms and a bright blue net, all in high spirits.

I was instantly transported back to my ancestral village in the southern Indian coastal state of Tamil Nadu, where as a child I spent hours dipping my feet in a pond and swimming carefree laps while village elders fished. As factories and other industrial infrastructure sprang up nearby, those ponds vanished, and my aquatic childhood playground is now a dry patch that has turned into a dumping ground surrounded by huts.

Participants in a fishing contest.

In Meghalaya, where I now live, waterways have not yet been polluted or drained by industry. And most communities have retained their culture and traditions, including indigenous religious beliefs, despite decades of preaching from missionaries of various kinds.

That resolve, and the communities’ perennial conversations with nature, are reflected, for many, in annual pilgrimages to U Mawryngkhang — a trip that the pioneering bamboo bridge trail from Wankhen has now opened to visitors from around India and the world.

Getting there

Visitors can fly directly to Shillong from New Delhi or Kolkata. Alternatively, fly into Guwahati, the capital of neighboring Assam state, which is 98 km from Shillong. The scenic drive takes about three hours.

For an added experience, stop at Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary on the outskirts of Guwahati. Known for its high density of one-horned rhinoceroses, Pobitora rivals its more famous neighbor, Kaziranga National Park, which is a World Heritage Site.

From Shillong, Wankhen and attractions such as the living-root bridges in Mawlynnong and Nongriat are one to three hours away by car.

Another view of the living-root bridge.

Where to stay

Meghalaya’s mountainous terrain makes commuting between places time-consuming. It is best to stay close to key sightseeing spots in Sohra (also known as Cherrapunjee), Upper Shillong, or Shillong city, where most hotels are located. From cozy homestays to luxury resorts, there is accommodation to suit every budget, ranging from $15 to $180 and above per night, often including breakfast. Many homestays include dinner as part of the accommodation package.

For a luxurious stay in Shillong, check out Marriott’s Courtyard and Taj’s Vivanta Meghalaya, both located in the bustling Police Bazaar. While there, do not miss the chance to savor an exotic spread of northeast Indian cuisine, crafted with unique regional spices and traditions.

For a hassle-free trip, consider an all-inclusive package from Timeless Existence, led by Udit Das, an ardent traveler and trekker. Das will take care of travel, accommodation, sightseeing and treks — leaving you free to enjoy Meghalaya to the fullest.

What to see and do

Meghalaya offers a colorful display of cherry blossoms in full bloom during November and December, attracting visitors eager to revel in their pink splendor.

The state is also a caving paradise, and home to the world’s deepest and longest caves, tiny troglobites (animals that live solely underground), and the recently discovered cave fish Neolissochilus pnar, which is thought to be the world’s largest subterranean fish.

Nohkalikai Falls, India’s highest plunge waterfall at just over 300 meters.   © Getty Images

Explorers in the 2024 Caving in the Abode of the Clouds expedition mapped 13,895 meters of previously unknown cave passages in this region. However, not all caves in Meghalaya are open to the public — many are deep and dangerous, while others are still under exploration. Among the most popular with tourists and locals are the Mawsmai, Arwah and Mawmluh caves.

Close to these underground wonders are a dozen stunning waterfalls. Must-visit locations include the Nohkalikai Falls, India’s highest plunge waterfall at just over 300 meters; the iconic Nohsngithiang, or Seven Sisters Falls; and the enchanting three-tiered Wei Sawdong Falls.

Another natural destination worth exploring is Laitlum Canyon, a popular picnic spot in the scenic Smit region, 24 km from Shillong. Adventurous visitors can trek down to the quaint villages in the valley, which offer a fascinating glimpse into the traditional lifestyle of the Khasi tribe. These villages often have beautiful football grounds surrounded by the lush and picturesque ridges of the canyon.

Finally, no trip to Meghalaya is complete without visiting the crystal-clear Umngot River. Visitors can enjoy a boat or kayak ride either at Shnongpdeng village or in the India-Bangladesh border town of Dawki. Camping, trekking, swimming, fishing and other activities are also possible here.

source : asia.nikkei.